Editorial

Thursday, November 21, 2024
OpinionCan the Handloom Weaving be sustained? - Dr.Sunanda Kalakannavar

Can the Handloom Weaving be sustained? – Dr.Sunanda Kalakannavar

Photograph by Kandukuri Ramesh Babu

The synthetic industry not only affected the health of the weaver/dyer also affected our nature earth to a great extent from deep sea-level to global warming. To develop sustainable and business model for individual handloom weaver is a big challenge in the era.

Dr. Sunanda Kalakannavar

Ancient technique of Handloom weaving has its own beauty and charm. Fabric was woven with a purpose to make life better and show the skill and talent of the weaver artist. Handloom weaving was fun and play.They used to extract the fibres from the available natural resources and spin with hand to make yarns of required thickness. Ancestor spinners used to spin a yarn of more than thousand count using hand and traditional self-made instruments. The skill of spinners is still unmatchable even with high end technologies. Quality was the main criteria. How best I can do ethically was the spirit and used to challenge by themselves.

Dr.Sunanda Kalakannavar is a qualified professional in the field of textile and apparel designing. She has more than two decades of teaching and research experience. Also won national award for exclusive work on natural dyes. She revived the Gollabaama design of Siddipet and produced diversified products. At present she is an entrepreneur in handloom sector and syndicate member of Karnataka Janapada Vishwavidyalay, Gotagodi.

According to the climatic conditions, situations and requirement the weaver artist used to weave the fabric with best of the best quality to suit the purpose. Artisans invented variety of handlooms like horizontal, vertical etc. as per the requirement and convenience to weave specific products to protect from natural calamities and enemies. The beautification of fabrics was enhanced with natural dye materials through dyeing and printing.

There are more similarities in the technique of handloom weaving between Karnataka, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh and Tamilnadu. The designs of Warangal carpets of Telangana are almost similar to Navalgund carpets of Karnataka but the type of handloom used are different. Technique of Gadwal sarees (pallu and border silk and body cotton) of Telangana are almost similar to Ilkal sarees of Karnataka and Kanchi sarees of Tamilnadu.

The invention and entry of synthetic dyes, synthetic yarns and power looms in the name of commercialisation, industrialisation and modernisation have completely ruined the creativity and beauty of the rich and skilful technique of handloom weaving.

The concepts and ideas were completely eco-friendly and used to maintain eco-balance of the nature. The invention and entry of synthetic dyes, synthetic yarns and power looms in the name of commercialisation, industrialisation and modernisation have completely ruined the creativity and beauty of the rich and skilful technique of handloom weaving. The synthetic industry not only affected the health of the weaver/dyer also affected our nature earth to a great extent from deep sea-level to global warming.

People have awakened and lot of revival work is going on since decades.

People have awakened and lot of revival work is going on since decades. Many NGO’s, CSR and government departments are working hard towards the sustainability and revival of traditional handlooms of India. Handloom products covers all ranges of fabrics suitable for customers from bath towels to casual to function wear to interior and exterior decoration. Globally artistic handloom products have huge demand and market.

How to develop sustainable and business model for individual handloom weaver is a challenge. Everyone knows about the situation and condition of actual traditional handloom weaver and related workers of the country. Even everyone knows about the situation and condition of the persons or teams who are working for the development of the handloom weavers and who trades to market their products. Majority of the actual artisan condition is poor whereas the officials and retailers are well off. Why can’t the actual handloom artisan be well off, why the facilities and profits are not reaching them? Why new generation is not entering into this art of weaving, where are we failing in uplifting the actual skilled artisans? We have to ponder over on these things and come out to resolve collectively.

Photograph by Kandukuri Ramesh Babu

Do we have an idea or business model to uplift the actual and artistic handloom weaver and related workers?

There are more questions to be answered. Do we have an idea or business model to uplift the actual and artistic handloom weaver and related workers? Can we make the skilled artisan to be aware of the market demand and uplift their inherent skill of weaving? Can we motivate the young generation to do research and become an entrepreneur in the field of handloom? Can we support farmer to increase production of cotton, silk, wool, jute etc.

All these questions to be answered by making the ordinary rich artisan as prime beneficiary in deed.

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